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Author Topic: Brass nut thingies in nose cover  (Read 1089 times)
captainfish
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« on: November 29, 2016, 06:23:26 AM »

Hello all you knowledgeable scootering peoples
RE:  Honda Reflex 250cc standard

The front nose piece that goes between the headlamps and covers the windshield's bolts.... it has 4 "connections" for it to be mounted.  2 in the middle located between the headlamps, these are just holes where the screws go through and in to the bike.  

The top 2 "connections" at the top wings, 1 at the very top of each wing of the nose piece, that holds the nose piece down securely over the windshield and ties it in to the front console of the bike.  The screws go in from the handlebar side.  The screws screw in to little brass barrel nuts that are inside the those wings of the nose piece.

Ok.. my problem... the brass barrel nut was stripped and would only turn the barrel nut within the nose piece.  Thus we had to use a pair of pliers to hold the barrel nut in order to remove the screw from it after the barrel nut was slipped out of the plastic nose piece.

So, how do I get new brass barrel nuts and then get them secured within those wings of the nose piece?

I can reuse the current brass barrel nuts, and I'm thinking of an epoxy like jbweld, but I believe the nuts are stripped.  I am unable to easily screw the screws back in to the nuts.  I fear that even if I reuse the nuts if I try to screw the screws back in, I'll reverse strip the nuts and then I'll have a bad nut jbweld'd in to the plastic nose piece.

ideas and suggestions would be very helpful.  thanks.
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jdbrot
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« Reply #1 on: November 29, 2016, 03:34:24 PM »

Google brass metric threaded inserts for plastic. You will probably have to epoxy the new one into the plastic.
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Attaboy
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« Reply #2 on: November 29, 2016, 07:55:23 PM »

I am just waiting for my crystal ball to enlighten me with what model bike you are working on.  Can not guess on my own !
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bandito2
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« Reply #3 on: November 29, 2016, 08:14:41 PM »

I am just waiting for my crystal ball to enlighten me with what model bike you are working on.  Can not guess on my own !


He has a Honda Reflex.

I have had that problem before myself. I happened to have something called PLASTEX
which is a plastic powder that is bonded with a special (I presume) solvent... the stuff
smells bad, but it worked great. I have heard of folks using baking powder and CRAZY
GLUE in a very similar way... apparently with success. I worked some of the powder
into the hole and moved the brass to get the powder to work up around it and dripped
some of the solvent to make it solidify but it may not work so well that way with crazy
glue and baking powder. Crazy glue dries pretty quickly and causes anything it touches
to hold tenaciously to your fingers. I have used the PLASTEX to rebuild new tabs that
had broken off and got lost and to repair some cracks too. Here's a link:
http://www.plastex.net/Product_Info.php

Whatever gets used needs to be kept away from the threads of the brass... which, BTW
uses a machine screw, not one of those course thread self starting screws like used on
most of the other plastics. Not familiar with JB weld how it may hold to the body plastic.
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captainfish
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« Reply #4 on: November 29, 2016, 11:40:04 PM »

Sorry, yes, Honda Reflex standard.
Thanks all.  Ok, I see the google, now to figure out the size of the screw.  Jdbrot, you sure it's metric.  I guess I can take it to Lowes and do their screw measure technique and see what size I need.  This will be an entertaining exercise.

BTW... I bought this bike for my son, 22yo.  He just learned a valuable lesson the other day.... starting off from a stop, while in the center of a lane, on a very moist road.  Bike slid out from under him when he goosed it too much.  He dropped the bike in the road and slightly busted up the front-right turn signal.  Didn't bust the plastic for the turn signal, but did for the tupperware just behind it.  I had warned him about where in the lane to ride and how to ride on slick roads.  heh... lesson learned.
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jdbrot
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« Reply #5 on: November 29, 2016, 11:51:27 PM »

You can take the screw for sizing and match it to the insert. It is probably an M5, everything is metric on my Reflex.
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Attaboy
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« Reply #6 on: November 30, 2016, 02:24:11 AM »

A glass jar, acetone, ABS scrap, you can use shavings from ABS plumbing pipe if you have any, make a slurry/paste and apply it to the area or around it with a wood coffee or popsicle stick or anything like a nail etc.. It gets harder than granite, easy to work with and inexpensive. Mix some up and test it before doing the job on your Reflex. The more you work with this stuff the better you get at it.

Good luck,

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Spyderist
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« Reply #7 on: November 30, 2016, 02:49:23 AM »

I believe the front nose screen is called the "screen trim garnish set", part  64100-KPB-J10Zx (2007) where x is a letter that designates color.  I found that on a number of parts sites.  But none of them seem to show the brass inserts (no doubt come embedded therein) or the screws that go there.  I suppose you could call a parts house and see if they can find a part # for the brass insert or the screw, or their specs ... or call a dealer.  If the insert is stripped you may have to find a replacement insert (or use 2 or 3 nuts "welded" together) that fits the screw - or go with a completely new nut/screw pair.

As to the Plastex for affixing the insert (or the new crack behind the turn signal), here's a pic of the Plastex repair I did on my wife's Reflex some years ago.  Sounds like the same injury (or close to it).  I don't know that the Plastex will adhere to the insert, but if its exterior is threaded or knobby (anything but smooth & round), the Plastex would likely grip it pretty well.  The deal with Plastex is you apply the fine powder, then saturate it with the solvent - so you'll need the hole big enough to pour the powder in around the insert (in layers).

A word of caution - if you're going to start pulling the "tupperware" off of the Reflex, you should get or consult (on-line?) a shop manual.  They've lots of tabs that like to break off if you don't know where they are.


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captainfish
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« Reply #8 on: November 30, 2016, 03:59:01 AM »

LOL attaboy... acetone scares the crap outa me.  almost like alien blood. heh.  stuff will eat through the hull of your ship.  But, that is a good idea.

Zurg... evil zurg.  thanks again.  I may have to purchase that nose piece,...errr.... "screen trim garnish set", if this doesn't work.  I'm not afraid to try tho.  I've got some jbweld, and some new screws as I think the ones (originals) I have are stripped.  Lowes didn't carry the exact kind.  But... jdbrot was correct that the screw was a 5mm.  Not many of that size and length - about half length, with washer too. 

I figure to mix up just a little jbweld, dab it in to the nut-holes of the garnish (kale I think?) then screw the barrel nut on to the screws, then mount the garnish and push the two together.. push the garnish in to place thus forcing the barrel nut in to the nut-hole.

There isn't much room there.  the barrel nuts were designed to grip the plastic inside the hole.  I'd bet the plastic was poured around the barrel nut during creation.  Thus, won't take much jbweld to "fill" the gaps.

Now, am off to figure out how long the barrel nut needs to be.  Ebay has them cheap.  Lowes didn't have any at all. 

And yeah, we may be doing the plastex for the signal light fix... tho, am missing some of the "lip" tab that the signal piece slides in to (looks like the top left lip from your top image, Zurg)

Again, thank you all for your suggestions and help.  ideas are awesome. 
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captainfish
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« Reply #9 on: November 30, 2016, 04:19:56 AM »

Here are the screws and barrel nuts that I've been talking about.  The last image are my attempt at replacement screws. One set is Phillips, the other is hex.  They were the shortest I could find with as small heads as I could find.  Will have to use more washers... which i bought.












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minimac
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« Reply #10 on: November 30, 2016, 05:26:00 PM »

Instead of adding washers,the bolts could be shortened easily with a grinder and then filed to clean up the threads, if needed. As for the tabs on your body parts, Plastex is the way to go, to replace/repair tabs like Bandito said.
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Attaboy
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« Reply #11 on: November 30, 2016, 11:45:04 PM »


Instead of adding washers,the bolts could be shortened easily with a grinder and then filed to clean up the threads, if needed.


That is exactly what I was thinking and the correct way to do it, rounding off the screw ends to enable these to screw in and out easily.
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